As it is I can't really understand your post. well, i have a stock deck for right now and need to know something, with all the cables leading into the back of my deck, will any of the blue wires work for attaching my remote turn on lead? Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion, IDQ12D2v3/Dyn MW160/Lotus RM110/Seas neo Alum, http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/relay_basics.htm, ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/Accessories/TiDD10_TDD5_Manual.PDF, System Design: Help Me Choose Equipment For My Car, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. It looked kind of funky, but it should have been a good connection, or at least I thought. Off hand I dont recall the color, but if its supposed to be for "remote turn on lead" then that is true, you do not have to hook that up to anything until you install an amp. Using a clarion cz702 to an alpine mrx f65 and alpine mrx m110. Got 30' of 16 gauge cheapo wire for $3. So, it was my splicing job that was at fault. speakers wires makes a difference. I've had 1 power acoustik and 2 different Pioneer amps, neither drew more than .2 amps. I never thought about this type of potential problem until I needed to wire up three amps. most times i take the end of the remote wire, and another piece of wire (going to the 2nd amp) and twist them together, put them into the remote input on the amp then secure it. Anymore than that, you will need a relay. so. Be sure the positive lead is touching the wire strands inside the jacket of the remote turn on wire. While in the ON position, there should be 12+ volts at the remote turn on wire. Connect terminal #85 to ground, terminal #86 to one of your 4 ends of the remote turn on wire from the head unit, and terminal #30 to The amp that will be switched by the relayed signal (this line, coming from the relay to your amp, is were you will add your toggle switch). Then turn the ignition to the ON position and test the same way again. :woot: that means your system won't sound good. The HU also powers a disc changer and DSP. the remote wire is usually between 18-12gauge does pull minimal 5-10amp , reason why remote wires are usually not very big in gauge . I am still pretty sure it was the connection, but of course I could be wrong. Because of the two fans I added a relay. Meter the switch lead at each amp. The last wire you need for powering the amp is a turn-on lead. Where would you put a relay? This is also known as an A/B/Y configuration. the relay does not power the amps. The remote wire acts essentially like your finger flicking a switch, where your finger is battery power, and the switch is a mechanism inside the amplifier. Looking at the back of the relay, you'll see 3 posts (right, left, bottom) going straight up and down and then 2 others (top, center) going left to right. Basically, I ended up with a "T" connection. if you connect the blue wire off your amp to a switched power, you may get a buzzing or humming … A Bosch type 30 amp SPDT (single pole double throw) relay is what you need. A relatively common problem is installing an amplifier with a factory head unit or other head unit without a remote turn on wire (or a burned out circuit). the remote wire is for powering on the amp. When I connect the REM turn-on wire (2 REM wire from amp, to 1 wire from the head unit), 1 will work but the other shuts-off. It could be an insufficient power supply instead and so a relay would be needed. Watch as Allyn of Sonic Electronix explains how to turn on your amp if you have a factory stereo without remote wire. Today I took the original turn on lead, and a second wire and attempted to splice them together by wrapping the wires around each other, and then soldered them together. The reason for the 2 separate wires is so you can have the antenna down when it's not needed, and still have the amp switched on when you're listening to a CD. No problems. If I need a relay, where would I get one? the relay is only used for the small remote turn on wire. quite pointless if u ask me. This is because a head unit turn on … It is showing less than 1 volt. The higher wattage amp most likely to shut off. ive ran 2 amps, eq and xover from the HU remote with no trouble. "The remote input current for amplifiers varies with the amplifier and the model. One wire is for the power antenna, and the other is the amp turn-on lead. Thanks for the links Bodega, I have the PG TiDD10 & TDD5 for my system & LOVE it. I am not sure why the power supply would be insufficient, unless the splicing reduces the voltage that much. JavaScript is disabled. One is 1000w max (300 RMS x 2 @ 4ohms) and the other is 300w max (50 RMS x 2 @ 4ohms). Even if either had drawn 10 amps, it might draw 10 amps for a fraction of a second and then the fuse on the deck would blow. Daisy chain the remote turn on, relay, or just crimp both to the (blue/white wire) remote lead on the hu? If it gives you trouble, then use a relay. Some amps have them built in, mostly car stereo amps. I hooked up my amps this afternoon, and I tried splicing the turn on wire into two, by twisting the wire around the original, and then soddering them together. Relays are only required if you are going to be using substantial amounts of current (over 200-500mA). I cut out my splice and butt connected the wire into a single wire again, and connected it to one of the amps. So therefore I need to find a lead to tap into that switches on when the ignition is turned on. the remote wire purpose is to signal to the amp to turn on or off , via voltage signal. The days when amp remotes took a lot of current are loong gone. as i haven't seen a relay before... aside from being able to power up devices with little current, it also acts like a power distro block? If you experiencing problems aside from this you may consider a grounding problem. There should be a fuse (equal or greater than the combined rating of fuses on the amps) no farther than 18 inches from the + battery terminal. I run 4 amps and have never had ANY problems for 5 years now. I am running two different amplifiers in my car. all the remote is, is a 12V current going from the head unit to the amp telling the amp that the HU is on. The upper limit of a properly functioning amplifier is approximately 50ma (0.05 amps). please correct my impression, if im wrong. IIRC, either Sony or JVC (can't remember which) 2 separate blue wires. To check if the connection was faulty, I basically spliced the  original wire back together again and connected it to one amp and then the amp turned on. I went back and checked it and the relay was pretty hot to the touch...given it was 98 stinkin degrees out but still...does that mean anything? And yes, just tap in and you run it to the amp's remote turn on. Has worked dozens of time for me. so this will work. A forum community dedicated to all mobile audio enthusiasts. The dc offset option does not turn on the amp. I turned the key on, and neither amp came to life. If it has one, there will be a bridging switch to enable it. Remote Turn On. The first applies if you want to connect multiple amplifiers to a single speaker or pair of speakers, and use only one amp at a time. Others draw a little more. If you still have the amp … You can cut the remote AMP turn-on wire, but not the main power wire, add an extra length of remote wire, solder them and heat shrink it to protect and seal your wires. Locate the remote turn-on lead behind your radio (usually a blue and white wire), and connect the turn-on lead from your amplifier wiring kit to it. I think I will try this method, thanks.... Not necessarily. The second and third apply when you want to connect two or more amplifiers to your system and use them at the same time, each amp powering a different set of speakers, with one of them usually used for a subwoofer.